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1920sThe influence of the booming film industry carried through to the 1920s, when stars endorsed makeup companies in ads and produced advice-driven booklets like The Famous Book of Beauty Secrets, penned in 1925 by French performer Agnès Souret. While “movie girls” like the doe-eyed Lillian Gish exemplified the enduring ideal of the innocent, virginal woman, entertainers like Clara Bow, Joan Crawford, and Josephine Baker tantalized audiences with their confident seduction and electrifying eye makeup.
Continuing its Hollywood reign, Max Factor sought to convey that makeup was not just for screen and stage. In 1920, the company introduced Society Make-Up, its first product range to be distributed nationally across America. After submitting a courtesy card detailing their coloring and attributes, women received a free booklet, The New Art of Society Make-Up. Though cosmetics were not universally worn in the 1920s, the aspirational vogue was for dark, kohl-rimmed eyes, heavy mascara, and penciled-on eyebrows, drawn downward toward the temples. This dramatic look was aided by eyeliner, popularized following the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922, as well as eyelash curlers like Kurlash, invented in 1923. |
ObjectsThe Nestle-LeMur Company (American, founded 1927)
Nesto Artificial Eyelashes No. 3 for Street Wear, and Nestoline Adhesive, ca. 1920 Nyal Company (American, founded second half of 19th century) Nylotis Black Eyebrow Crayon, ca. 1915–1920 Princess Pat Ltd. (American, founded 1907 as Gordon Inc.) Eye Shadow Label, ca. 1920s Women's Home and Personal Service Library, Chicago Mailorder Co. (founded 1899) Agnès Souret (1902–1928) The Famous Book of Beauty Secrets, 1925 Max Factor (American, founded 1909) Supreme Eyelash and Eyebrow Masque, ca. 1928 Courtesy of Gabriela A. Hernandez, Founder of Bésame Cosmetics Max Factor (American, founded 1909) Society Make-Up “Eyelash Make-Up” Mascara, ca. 1928 Courtesy of Gabriela A. Hernandez, Founder of Bésame Cosmetics Max Factor, (American, founded 1909) The New Art of Society Make-Up Max Factor Hollywood, 1935, (first edition 1928) Photograph of Max Factor applying makeup to Joan Crawford, ca. late 1920s |
Graphics: Betty D. Thornley, “Beauty that Insists on Expression,” American Vogue (July 1921); Kurlash Advertisement, American Vogue (September 1923); Artificial eyelashes and method of making same patent, US1450259 A, Charles Nessler (1923); Maybelline Eyelash Beautifier Advertisement, American Vogue (September 1928); Eyelash curler patent, US1699084 A, Kurlash Company Inc. (1929)
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